Actually affordable: RZE Valor 38 field watch

Field watches are easily one of the most accessible watch styles, and because they are inherently straightforward and simple creations, there are now numerous options on the affordable side of the spectrum. However, RZE specializes in producing value-oriented timepieces from surface-hardened titanium, and field watches are a natural part of the company’s DNA. Within RZE’s product range, the Valor 38 is the brand’s most affordable mechanical model and represents a modernized expression of the classic field watch concept. Although the RZE Valor 38 has been around for several years, a new generation was introduced in early 2024, containing several updates and improvements which expand an already extremely convincing timekeeping companion that can be used everywhere and for everything.

Although the Valor 38 is RZE’s most affordable mechanical watch, it positions itself as more of a mid-range model in the brand’s current field watch portfolio. The Solar Quartz Urbanist is RZE’s true entry-level model, while the Resolute Pro is the brand’s top field watch, featuring a 4Hz automatic movement and an enamel dial. In the middle (although priced closer to the entry-level Urbanist) is the RZE Valor 38 field watch, which runs on a 3Hz automatic movement and a standard printed dial. While RZE’s Resolute models are much more upscale timepieces that feature applied hour markers and time-only indications, the Valor 38 follows an inherently more utilitarian design ethos, and the latest generation of the RZE Valor 38 now features a date display , which is something special. This is missing from both the Felduhr siblings Resolute and Urbanist.

Like all RZE timepieces, the Valor 38 field watch is made from Grade 2 titanium and covered in the brand’s proprietary UltraHex surface coating, making it approximately eight times more scratch-resistant than traditional stainless steel. While the surfaces of the components feature contrasting finishing techniques, there are no highly polished elements on the RZE Valor 38 and the entire watch is either brushed or sandblasted for a more purposeful overall appearance. A flat sapphire crystal (with anti-reflective treatment on the inside) sits in a smooth, fixed bezel, while a solid screw-down caseback seals the back of the watch with an improved Viton gasket and sits between two angular guards. The 3 o’clock position is a signed screw-down one Crown that helps support the 100-meter waterproof rating of the Valor 38 collection.

In terms of dimensions, the official specifications of the RZE Valor 38 are 38mm diameter, 11mm thickness, a lug width of 20mm, and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 45mm. However, when I measured the watch with digital calipers, I found that it was about half a millimeter thicker (measured at the center of the watch) and almost a full millimeter larger in diameter (measured at the narrowest part of the case). However, since the Valor 38’s middle case has a sort of tonneau-shaped profile that extends to the crown guards and lugs, there is no way to physically measure the watch without including at least some of its crown guard structures. Ultimately, however, 38mm seems to be a fair description of the size of the Valor 38, and it is actually slightly smaller than many other 38mm watches due to its case geometry and compact lugs.

At the time of writing, the RZE Valor 38 collection includes four colorways including Carbon Black, Medallion Yellow, Slate Gray and Calcite. While the Carbon Black and Slate Gray color variants are rather self-explanatory, Medallion Yellow is RZE’s signature shade of ultra-saturated goldenrod yellow, and the Calcite model (featured here) is the fully luminous version, which features a cream dial accented with black badges and small medallion yellow -Accents. Regardless of color, all Valor 38 dials feature the same basic design, following the blueprint of the classic Mil-Spec derived field watch. Syringe-shaped hands indicate the time in front of a printed set of Arabic hour markers, while a smaller 24-hour scale appears along the inner circumference. In the calcite color variant presented here, the frames of the hands are painted black to provide additional contrast against the dial.

On the original Valor 38 models, which only showed time, the RZE logo was placed within the minute display below the 6 o’clock mark, although on this latest generation it has been moved to the top of the secondary 24-hour scale, and a date window (with a color-coordinated calendar disc) now replaces the 6 o’clock index. Because the calcite dial is fully luminous, the clever decision to give its surface a cream appearance helps ensure that it does not exhibit the sickly green tone that is often typical of fully luminous dials. However, the hands and the entire surface of the dial still glow bright green in the dark, while the small orange accents within the minute track glow in a contrasting muted orange tone. Although non-luminous hands would have provided better contrast, an all-black handset would have looked disproportionate in daylight, and the distinct profile of their syringe-shaped tips ensures good legibility in the dark.

Due to the addition of a date display, the updated RZE Valor 38 watches are powered by the calendar versions of the original time-only models and are equipped with the venerable Seiko Caliber NH35A automatic movement. With a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and a power reserve of approximately 41 hours, the Seiko NH35A is one of the most widely used automatic movements in the entire watch industry and offers the usual conveniences of hacking and hand-winding with a quick-adjustment mechanism for the date display . Aside from featuring a color-matched calendar disc, the NH35A movements in the Valor 38 watches are otherwise identical to those found in countless other timepieces, and while the Seiko NH35 is hardly noteworthy from a watchmaking perspective, it is it is the definition of a reliable and proven design.

Because its case is made of titanium, the RZE Valor 38 is a relatively light watch at just 44 grams, although this inevitably increases when you include a bracelet. In standard configuration, the Valor 38 comes with a black version of RZE’s HexaFlex rubber strap, which features a curved two-piece design and tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 18mm at the bottom of the wrist. While the RZE Valur 38’s lugs feature drilled holes to accommodate a wider range of spring bars and bands, the brand’s HexaFlex bracelet also features integrated quick-release spring bars to allow for tool-free bracelet changes. The outer surfaces of the HexaFlex bracelet feature a simple raised line running down the center, while the underside surfaces are textured to promote air circulation. Completing the bracelet is a simple pin buckle made from the same UltraHex coated titanium as the case.

The fact that RZE goes to the trouble of equipping its HexaFlex rubber strap with a matching hardened titanium clasp is definitely a nice touch, although I would have liked the mandrel for the clasp to be a little wider (or the gap would be made narrower for this). that the tang would have less lateral movement. However, this is a really minor drawback that you will only notice when lining up the tang to fit it through one of the sizing holes, and since the material used for the bracelet is 100% Fluorocarbon Rubber (FKM), it feels feels noticeably more stable than the hard resin or silicone straps that are often found on inexpensive sports watches. Realistically speaking, if you’re going to be annoyed by the amount of lateral play on a buckle, then the rest of the watch has to be fairly free of major defects, and aside from minor things, I have a feeling most buyers will be reasonably happy with it including HexaFlex- Rubber band.

Alternatively, RZE also offers the Valor 38 with a matching UltraHex-coated titanium bracelet, although it’s the brand’s universal straight-end bracelet that’s compatible with anything that has 20mm lugs, including even something like one Apple Watch (when using nudge). Adapter). The angular H-link design with solid machined components and single-sided screws for the removable links tapers from 20mm at the case to 16mm at the bottom of the wrist and features a fully brushed finish with an integrated quick release. Release springs integrated into the straight end connections allow for tool-free changes. Additionally, the bracelet’s clasp is a very thoughtful piece of engineering, maintaining a fairly compact overall profile while still featuring a double push-button release and an integrated extension system with five incremental adjustment positions that can be accessed by pressing a lever inside its structure.

I’ve always felt that field watches are a style of timepiece best enjoyed on the affordable side of the spectrum, as their minimalist features and inherently utilitarian design simply don’t warrant a particularly luxurious level of execution. A field watch should be a robust and carefree timepiece and not a precious item that is only worn on special occasions. However, most watch lovers want something that feels a little different and more thoughtful than the various standard offerings, and this is where RZE excels. With an official retail price of $349 In the standard configuration with a rubber strap (add an extra $100 if you prefer the titanium bracelet), the RZE Valor 38 is completely free of the mental baggage that comes with more expensive watches and manages to stand out as an absolute highlight in this compelling offering an incredibly competitive watch category. For more information about the RZE Valor 38, visit the brand’s website.