One of the most important watches of this century has just been given a stunning makeover

Recently someone asked me which watch I thought was the most important of the 21st century. Although I can’t quite settle on an answer, the first watch that came to mind was the Ulysse Nardin Freak.

The original Freak first hit the market in 2001 and lived up to its name, with a wild design that was only matched by its unorthodox functionality. The watch had no traditional hands, dial and crown. Instead, the clockwork itself told time, with its flying carousel acting as a minute hand and a rotating disc on the clockwork indicating the hours. Instead of a crown, the watch’s bezel was used to adjust the “hands” while rotating the caseback wound the watch.

As unique and revolutionary as the Freak’s appearance was, it was the inner workings of the watch that truly left a lasting legacy. The original Freak was the first watch in history to use silicon parts in its escapement. The futuristic material is light and hard, requires no lubrication and is insensitive to temperature and magnetism.

Ulysses Nardin

Silicon’s unique properties make it ideal for use in fragile, easily-failed mechanical watch movements, and the Freak showed that it was possible to use the material in a watch with the right technological know-how. Since the UN paved the way, silicon has become the gold standard for high-quality watch escapements.

Omega uses silicon hairsprings and balance wheels in its Master Chronometer movements. Zenith uses a full silicon escapement in the modern versions of its legendary El Primero movement. Both Rolex and Patek Philippe now use proprietary silicon materials for their balance springs: “Syloxi” for Rolex and “Spiromax” for Patek. You get the picture.

Now Ulysse Nardin has released a new version of the Freak – the Freak One Navy Blue – and it might be the most sought-after version of the shape yet.

Ulysses Nardin

Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue

Specifications

Case size	44mm
Movement	Ulysse Nardin Cal. Automatic flying carousel UN-240
Water resistance	30m